Irwin flying jacket
Leslie Leroy Irvin was an innovative American aviator and parachuting pioneer. In 1919, he made the first premeditated free-fall parachute jump, securing his place in aviation history. Building on this achievement, he established the Irvin Air Chute Company in Buffalo, New York. The company quickly became a critical supplier of parachutes to the U.S. Army Air Service, and by 1926, Irvin had expanded his operations to the United Kingdom, setting up a factory in Letchworth, Hertfordshire.
With the rapid advancement of aviation in the 1930s, military aircraft were reaching higher altitudes, exposing pilots to sub-zero temperatures in unheated, unpressurized cockpits. In response to this harsh environment, Irvin designed the now-iconic Irvin Flying Jacket in 1931. Its design was functional and durable: made from thick, double-faced sheepskin with the wool lining turned inward for insulation and the leather outer shell providing wind and weather resistance. It featured a full-length brass zipper, a broad collar that could be turned up and fastened with straps, a waist belt for a snug fit, and heavy-duty sleeve zippers to interface with gauntlet gloves.
The jacket quickly gained official status as standard-issue gear for Royal Air Force pilots and bomber crews, especially during World War II. It became a critical part of an airman’s kit, especially for those flying in aircraft like the Spitfire and Lancaster bomber at high altitudes during bombing runs over Europe.
Initially, the jackets were produced at the Irvin factory in Letchworth. However, as war broke out and demand skyrocketed, the British Ministry of Aircraft Production enlisted multiple subcontractors to meet the needs of the RAF. Among these were Wareings of Northampton, Links of Sheffield, and D. Lewis Ltd. of London. Each factory produced slightly different versions of the jacket, often distinguished by stitching patterns, panel configurations, and even zip manufacturers, depending on material availability and wartime rationing. Despite minor differences, all adhered to the basic Irvin design.
Exact production numbers are not known due to the fragmented nature of wartime manufacturing and record-keeping, but it is widely estimated that tens of thousands of Irvin jackets were made and issued during the course of the war.
While the United Kingdom was the primary user, the jacket was also issued to or adopted by aircrews in other Allied forces, including the United States Army Air Forces, particularly before the widespread use of their own B-3 flight jackets; Canada, where Royal Canadian Air Force pilots wore Irvin-style jackets in similar arctic flight conditions; Australia and New Zealand, whose Commonwealth forces often received RAF equipment; the British Fleet Air Arm, operating aircraft from Royal Navy aircraft carriers; and the Army Air Corps, supporting British airborne and reconnaissance operations.
Postwar, surplus Irvin jackets found continued use among police motorcycle units, emergency services, and civilians in cold climates. The distinctive look and undeniable warmth made them both practical and stylish in postwar Britain.
In 1977, a resurgence of interest in vintage military wear and British heritage fashion led Simon Green to acquire the original patterns and rights to reproduce the jacket. His company, Aviation Leathercraft, based in Thame, Oxfordshire, began manufacturing new Irvin Flying Jackets using the same materials and techniques as the originals. These jackets were, and still are, supplied to the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, the Red Arrows, and various air shows and commemorative squadrons.
Today, the Irvin Flying Jacket remains not only a timeless piece of aviation history but also a symbol of resilience and ingenuity. Its rugged construction and storied past continue to resonate with collectors, historians, and aviation enthusiasts worldwide, nearly a century after its original design.
